Sunday, April 27, 2008

26 April 2008

Today was a terrible day for both of us. We left Estella early and it was nice and cool. By the time we got to Villamajor de monjardin, it had gotten quite hot and there was no shade anywhere for over 15 kms. Not one tree could be seen and we were being baked alive. For those of you who know me well, you know how I love the heat. I was no longer a very pleasant companion! It took us 7 hours to do this one. Our hands are quite tanned but in the weirdest way. Because the straps of our walking poles cover part of the top of our hands, only half our hands are tanned. Looks like we haven´t washed for many days. When we finally got to the refugio in Los Arcos, it was packed to the gunnels with smelly stinky people. We were in a room with 2 bunk beds with only enough space between for a person to pass. (Some refugios have triple bunks). The town was a real disaster, so not in keeping with what we had seen so far. It reminded us of a one horse Mexican town, with its sleezy bars and dirty sidewalks. We have never mentioned that in Spain, everything closes at 2 p.m. and reopens at 6 p.m. but the eating establishments don´t reopen until 8 or 9 p. m. so, if you are hungry and want to go to bed early, you are out of luck. There was one place in Los Arcos which served dinner at 7, so all of the pilgrims gathered there around 5, had a few drinks at their bar and waited.... The lack of competition did not do anything for the food. We had all showered before leaving the refugio so, as soon as we got back, we went to bed. It was 8:30. Tomorrow, our plan is to get up even earlier then today and to to Vianna, about 18kms away.

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